Tranexamic Acid: Everything You Need to Know for Brighter Skin
What is Tranexamic Acid?
Tranexamic Acid is a skincare ingredient that addresses dark spots, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, and melasma.
Derived from amino acids (peptides), it has anti-inflammatory properties. While it may cause irritation, redness, and flaking in sensitive skin types, gradual introduction into your skincare routine minimizes this side effect.
Skin brightening is one of the most common concerns we get asked about at Skin Deep Esthetics. Skincare companies are researching ingredients and processes for estheticians so we can help consumers with their skin.
Tranexamic Acid is a newer ingredient in the skincare market but packs a powerful punch when added to your skincare routine.
In a year-long study done in 2009-2010 on 50 women with Melasma, Tranexamic Acid was compared to Hydroquinone – an ingredient known for having undesirable side effects and is no longer legal in many countries. (Link1) This study shows that Tranexamic Acid is as effective as Hydroquinone but safer.
Let’s pause and talk about Hydroquinone for a moment.
Hydroquinone is a skin-bleaching agent used to treat melasma and hyperpigmentation for years. Hydroquinone has been banned in the US and Europe due to its known toxicity and carcinogenic effects.
Hydroquinone has also been studied for its carcinogenic effects. However, a study done on the carcinogenic effects of Hydroquinone shows that the evidence is inadequate because the study states: “It is likely the mode of carcinogenic action of hydroquinone is an exacerbation of this natural disease process.”
Hydroquinone has been banned in the US since 2020. Because so many people suffer from hyperpigmentation and melasma, the rise of alternative ingredients, including Tranexamic Acid, have risen into the skincare industry.
How is Tranexamic Acid Used in Skincare?
Tranexamic Acid prevents pigment production in pigmentation cells, also known as Melanocytes.
Melanocytes are responsible for our skin coloring. However, excess sun exposure or sunburns, excessive heat, and inflammatory skin conditions damage the melanocyte cells, resulting in dark spots, known as hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or melasma.
Tranexamic Acid is formulated into a serum and is applied to the skin typically in the morning. We love to pair Tranexamic Acid with Retinol for the best effects, however, if you are not yet using Retinol, we don’t recommend starting both ingredients together.
Depending on the skin concerns, we would start you off on one until your skin adjusts, then incorporate the other.
The benefit of pairing Retinol with Tranexamic Acid is that Retinol targets the collagen and stimulates cell turnover, which means that the darker cells slough off quickly.
SPF is a MUST with this ingredient, especially because we are working to lighten hyperpigmentation and melasma. Sun and heat will increase melanocytes, which would be the opposite of what the serum is working at reducing.
With your SPF, you must reapply it every 2 hours to keep the skin from darkening. Too much sun exposure will offset everything you are doing with these serums.
What Products Contain Tranexamic Acid?
We love the Melaclear Advanced Serum from ISDIN. This serum is a blend of Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, and Licorice Root Extract, all skin-brightening ingredients.
This serum is recommended 1-2 times a day, however, if you use Retinol at night, we suggest using Melaclear Advanced during the day.
How is Tranexamic Acid Used?
The good news is Tranexamic Acid is an amino acid, that can be used year-round! The word “acid” can trick us into believing that we are applying acid to the skin. Acid is a chemistry term.
When we start clients out on Tranexamic Acid, we slowly introduce it into the skin, because you can get side effects, such as redness, irritation, flaking, etc.
We recommend beginning usage and depending on the skin, 1-2 times a week.
Usage Tips:
🌿 Tranexamic Acid is safe for use year-round
🌿 Start slowly (1-2 times a week) to prevent side effects such as irritation, redness, or flaking
🌿 Gradually increase use based on your esthetician’s recommendations
🌿 Pair with advanced treatments for best results
After about a month of use, you will notice skin lightening!
Clinical studies show that after 12 weeks of using Melaclear Advanced 7 days a week, 63% noticed a decrease in hyperpigmentation.
Clinical studies show that after 12 weeks of using Melaclear Advanced 2x a day, 81% showed a decrease in hyperpigmentation.
Who Can Use Tranexamic Acid?
Anyone who is looking for skin brightening!
If you have dark spots from the sun, sun damage, post-acne hyperpigmentation, or melasma.
One thing to note about using Tranexamic Acid on clients with acne. The skin may purge and bring more acne up to the skin’s surface.
This is temporary and will clear up after some time, but it is something to know before beginning Tranexamic Acid.
If you are ready to work on skin brightening now that fall is approaching, we recommend starting on this serum ASAP.
What Treatments Pair Well With Tranexamic Acid?
We love to pair our Melaclear Advanced serum with our Peels, Dermaplaning, and Microchanneling Brightening treatments.
We suggest starting on a peel series of 4-6 weekly treatments, which also work on skin brightening and help to even out skin tone. Microchanneling should be done in 4-6 monthly treatments. For maximum penetration of these specialized serums, we recommend a peel or dermaplane treatment on the day of your microchanneling treatment.
Because Tranexamic Acid is derived from amino acids, you don’t have to stop usage during a peel series!
Time to Focus on YOU!
With August here and the kids heading back to school, it’s the perfect time for you to schedule some self-care! And start back onto a good skincare routine. Start with our Melaclear Advanced serum and once you have more time for yourself, begin your peel series.
If you have any questions, feel free to call, text, or email us.
Or drop us a comment below…we love answering your questions!
