Sunscreen: How To Protect Your Skin This Spring and Beyond
Sunscreen: How To Protect Your Skin – Your Ultimate Guide
Sunscreen Time! Spring is here, more time for sunshine and those sneaky spring-time sunburns that appear out of nowhere. As estheticians, we see it all the time. You step out on a chilly spring day, only to find yourself with rosy cheeks a few hours later. This week, we are diving into everything you need to know about sunscreens: how to apply them, why some leave a white cast, which formulas work best, how they protect, and even those added to moisturizers and tint. Let’s get started!
What is Sunscreen?
Sunscreen shields your skin from harmful UV rays that cause skin damage. There are two types of sunscreen: one absorbs and the other reflects UV rays.
How Does Sunscreen Protect?
Made up of various active chemical or mineral ingredients that form a protective layer on top of the skin. This barrier prevents premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer.
What Does SPF Mean?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor – a measure of how long you can safely be in the sun before burning. For example, an SPF 15 means you have about 15 minutes more time before you begin to burn. We often assume a higher SPF number equals more protection, but that’s not entirely true. The higher the number the more chemicals are added. All sunscreen protects about 97%, even an SPF 100! This is why we still get a tan when using sunscreen. The FDA defines SPF as “There is a popular misconception that SPF relates to time of solar exposure. For example, many consumers believe that, if they normally get sunburn in one hour, then an SPF 15 sunscreen allows them to stay in the sun 15 hours (i.e., 15 times longer) without a sunburn. This is not true because SPF is not directly related to time of solar exposure but to amount of solar exposure.”
Why Do We Need Sunscreen?
UV rays come in two forms: UVA and UVB.
☀️ UVA: A = aging. A long wavelength that penetrates deep into the skin, breaking down collagen and elastin by creating free radicals. Free Radicals are defined by the National Cancer Institute, as “A type of unstable molecule that is made during normal cell metabolism (chemical changes that take place in a cell). Free radicals can build up in cells and cause damage to other molecules, such as DNA, lipids, and proteins. This damage may increase the risk of cancer and other diseases.” UVA rays are always present and can penetrate glass.
☀️ UVB: B = Burning. Shorter wavelengths are responsible for sunburns, skin cancer, and DNA damage. MD Anderson defines UVB rays, “UVB radiation makes up only 5% of the UV rays from the sun, but it is very high energy.” UVB rays are strongest from 10am to 4pm.
Sun Damage and The Skin
Most of our skin problems come from diet and sun exposure. Your skin is the largest organ of our body and remembers every sunburn and tan, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, and broken capillaries as we age. While damage can be reversed, prevention is always easier than correction.
Sunscreen vs. Sunblock
☀️ Sunscreen: Uses chemical ingredients to absorb UV rays. Most sunscreens protect from UVB rays only.
☀️ Sunblock: Uses minerals to reflect against both UVA and UVB rays away from the skin (like a mirror).
Chemical vs. Physical
🔹 Chemical Sunscreen: Absorbs UV rays and converts them into heat which is then released from the body. Chemical sunscreen ingredients include Avobenzone, Homosalate, and Octisalate, among many other names. These formulas are light and spread easily onto the skin. If you have oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin, it is best to avoid chemical sunscreens or avoid skin irritation or breakouts.
🔹 Physical Sunscreen: Creates a barrier on the skin to deflect the UV rays away from the body, like a mirror. Physical sunscreen ingredients include Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Dioxide. They’re ideal for all skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive skin, but can leave a white cast on the skin.
Does Sunscreen Expire?
Yes! Expired sunscreen is dangerous and can cause skin irritation or sunburn.
✅ Unopened: Good for up to 3 years from the manufacturing date.
✅ Opened: Use within 6 months if exposed to heat or sunlight, a wet or humid environment, or air from opening and closing the lid
✅ Best Practice: Start fresh and open a new bottle every spring
Why Do You Get A White Cast?
Mineral ingredients, such as Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are naturally white and sit on the skin’s surface to reflect UV rays. Darker skin tones may notice this more. If you want to stick to a physical sunscreen that doesn’t cause a white cast, click here to check out our recommended sunscreens. Modern formulations are improving the white cast.
Will Sunscreen cause Acne?
Chemical sunscreens are more likely to be irritating or comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, opt for physical sunscreen instead.
Why Sunscreen with Retinol?
When using Retinol, sunscreen is an ABSOLUTE MUST! Retinol increases skin sensitivity to the sun due to its peeling effect, making daily SPF use a must. Renee Rouleau, Licensed Esthetician explains it better, “When the skin is being peeled (even through what is known as “micro peeling,” which is not always visible to the naked eye), fresh, vulnerable cells are being exposed to the harsh effects of the environment. This is especially true if you’re using a prescription-strength retinoid that increases cellular turnover.” If you intend to protect your skin with SPF, you can continue retinol use during the summer. Continued retinol use is more effective than stopping and starting!
Reef-Safe
Chemical ingredients, such as oxybenzone or octinoxate, harm marine life and cause coral bleaching. In an article from The Smithsonian, “Research shows octinoxate degrades into a chemical called benzophenone, which is a known cancer-causing agent and hormone disruptor. A notable 2016 study found that oxybenzone can cause deformities in both coral larvae and baby corals, damage to coral DNA, and abnormal skeletal growth.” Our suggested reef-safe sunscreens contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide instead of chemicals.
Many sunscreen ingredients wash off in the water. The next time you’re at the pool or beach, notice the smell of sunscreen and how oily the water looks. Often this is caused by people showing up, applying sunscreen, and getting in the water. Your SPF needs 15-20 minutes to soak in otherwise it washes right off!
SPF with Moisturizer and/or Tint
This has become a game-changer! We are all about simple skincare and having a moisturizing SPF means one step in the morning! Moisturizing sunscreens contain hydrating and protective ingredients. While tinted sunscreens offer sheer coverage, replacing the need for foundation.
Sunscreen Sprays
In my honest opinion, I despise sunscreen sprays for two reasons:
1️⃣ Inconsistent application of sunscreen – especially if it’s windy outside
2️⃣ Contains toxic chemicals that absorb into the skin and bloodstream
Think of how smelly spray sunscreen is. You go to the beach and can smell it a mile away. That is not good for your endocrine system. Spray sunscreens use aerosol which uses a propellant, specifically a pressurized gas to pump the product out. In a blog by Colorscience, “Harsh, active ingredients commonly found in big-name sunscreens—such as avobenzone, homosalate, and most importantly, oxybenzone—are absorbed into our skin, swept into our bloodstream, found present in urine within 15 minutes, and passed onto children through breast milk. These toxic chemicals are hormone disruptors and potent allergens, plus they can form free radicals when they react with the sun.”
What is even more frustrating is the FDA is “suggesting” that parents hold off on spray sunscreens on children “until we know more.” As a parent of three, this is a scary thought. How many parents grab spray sunscreen because of its convenience? And why has the FDA not done anything about this product?
Our Top Recommendations
Here are our recommended sunscreens for the face:
🔹BB cream SPF 30
🔹CC cream SPF 30
🔹 Non-tinted SPF to apply over moisturizer
🔹Mineral Powder Makeup Brush
Here are our recommended sunscreens for the body:
🔹Colorescience Body SPF 50
🔹Suntegrity Body SPF 50
🔹Babo Super Shield SPF 50
🔹Badger Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30
The Future: Sunification
Consumers want to protect their skin from the sun and have products specifically with SPF. According to a study published by Global Cosmetics Industry, “Per Veylinx, “65% of consumers prefer sunscreens with an SPF greater than 40,” while 57% “seek out moisturizers with built-in SPF.” This tells us that simple IS better especially when wearing sunscreen.
Consumers also want SPF in their serums, moisturizers, and makeup. From an esthetician standpoint, putting SPF in a serum is ineffective because serums must penetrate to be effective and SPF needs to sit on top of the skin to protect. Lastly, makeup containing SPF is also on the rise. BB or CC moisturizing creams with SPF cover and help even the skin tone without wearing makeup.
Ready to Protect Your Skin?
We are always here to help and connect. If you have questions, please drop them in the comments below. Looking to stock up on sunscreen? Shop our sunscreen collections and stay protected year-round.
